Part 2: NATURAL LASH FUNDAMENTALS
Before you even touch an extension, your client’s natural lash pH can make or break your retention. Most artists skip this step, but understanding pH is key to making sure your adhesive actually bonds the way it’s meant to.
What is pH?
pH is a scale from 0–14 that measures how acidic or basic something is.
Below 7 = acidic
7 = neutral
Above 7 = basic
At 25°C, water is neutral at pH 7. Our skin and hair usually sit between 4.5–5.5 (slightly acidic). But skincare, diet, hormones and hygiene habits can push those levels up or down without you realising it.
Why does this matter for lashes?
Your adhesive cures through polymerisation (monomers linking into polymers when they meet moisture). If the lash surface is too acidic or too basic, the glue’s chemical reaction is disrupted:
Acidic lashes (pH below 7) = glue cures slower.
Basic lashes (pH above 7) = glue cures faster.
Either way, the polymer chains end up weaker, so even if the set “feels” secure, the bond is more fragile and sheds sooner.
How do we fix it?
Always cleanse the lashes with a pH-balanced lash cleanser before starting. Cleansing does more than remove makeup, it resets the lash surface to a neutral zone so your glue behaves consistently. Most pro cleansers (like Prolong) sit between pH 5–7.5, which brings everything closer to that ideal range.
Even if a client swears their lashes are clean, you can’t know what moisturiser or serum they used that morning, so always do the cleanse yourself.
